Patio Furniture and More

Patio awnings can be an important part of your new or existing patio, as they allow you to enjoy your patio anytime you want, rain or shine. Not only are they functional, serving to provide shade and relief from the heat or weather, but they come in a variety of decorative styles and can add a splash of design to your patio.

Many companies offer retractable patio awnings that, with a touch of a button, can automatically be deployed and retracted, usually in less than a minute. Most also offer manually operated awnings that require a little more elbow grease on your part but function exactly the same as motorized automatic versions.

Many people view patio awnings as a luxury, costly item, but not only can they provide better protection from UV rays, but they also extend the life of your patio furniture, preventing it from fraying and fading. Most patio owners easily recoup any money spent on patio awnings in just a few season, once you add up the time savings and greater comfort and safety from the sun.

Pella patio doors are some of the most popular on the market, offer home owners a wide variety of shapes, styles and sizes to fit most any opening in your home. Wooden Pella doors can not only can be finished to match your existing woodwork, but they require very little maintenance to continue looking their best.

The company’s patio doors are available in both sliding and French door styles, with each style available in Architect, Designer, and Proline series. Options in the Architect series (the most expensive) include a variety of grille patterns and hardware finishes, as well as the option of choosing different woods such as mahogany, alder, Douglas fir, and pine.

All Pella patio doors come with the company’s durable, low-maintenance EnduraClad exterior finish that never needs painting and is impervious to all weather conditions, no matter what Mother Nature throws at it.

While some people believe installing a hot tub is a difficult task best left to professionals, it’s actually a pretty simple job and well within the capabilities of most homeowners. We’ll cover the more common installation of an outdoor hot tub, as indoor installations will typically require professional help.

1. Spend a little time planning the best location for your hot tub or spa before purchasing it. Keep in mind that the average hot tub weighs about 5000 pounds when full of water, so be sure that it has the proper support. Concrete pads, gravel, paver stones, and decks all can be used as a base for your hot tub.

2. Depending on your hot tub, you may need to have an electrician install GFCI-protected 220-240V 50 amp circuits. Many hot tubs, though, operate on standard household voltage of 100-120V, so all you’ll need for them is an outdoor electrical outlet near where you plan to locate the hot tub.

3. Before the hot tub is delivered, make sure you have access to get it into your backyard or wherever it will be located. Most companies deliver the hot tub to your curb but that’s it, so you’ll need to have helpers ready to move it into its final location.

Two people can typically move a hot tub if it’s positioned on a piano or furniture dolly, so most of the muscle is needed to lift it on and off and position it correctly.

4. Once your hot tub is in place, turn off all electrical power to the equipment at the circuit breaker. If the hot tub has gate valves, open them, then make sure the drain valve is closed.

5.Check to see that the filters are properly seated, then use a garden hose to fill the hot tub to the level recommended in your owner’s manual.

6.Open the equipment door panel and look for leaks, tightening any connections that are leaking. Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.

7. Follow the directions in your manual to balance your water chemistry and use a sanitizer system.

Congratulations, you just installed your hot tub!

Learn how to repair and patch small to midsized cracks in your swimming pool, as well as when to call for help from professionals.

1. In concrete pools, hairline cracks can simply be patched with chorlinated rubber or epoxy swimming pool paint. Most small hairline cracks can safely be ignored in fiberglass pools, as they’re just a normal sign of the pool aging.

2. For slightly larger cracks (less than 1/8 of an inch), patch cracks with special epoxy compound that is made just for concrete pools or with fiberglass patch kits for fiberglass pools. Always follow the instructions from the manufacturer of the product you’re using.

3. If cracks are larger than 1/8 of an inch or more than a foot long, it’s time to call the professionals.

Building a concrete patio is hard work, but with a lot of planning, a bit of sweat, and the know-how below, it’s definitely a job that you can tackle yourself.

1) Like most home improvement projects, a little planning goes a long, long way. You should not only plan your concrete patio itself but be sure to have all the materials you’ll need.

Anything other than a tiny concrete patio will require renting a cement mixer. If you’re building a typical six inch thick patio, you’ll need one bag of pre-mixed concrete for every two square feet of patio.

2) Dig out the patio shape with a shovel, digging down at least six inches if you live in an area that freezes in the winter. If you’re building next to your house, establish a grade so that water will run off the patio.

The easiest way to establish a grade is to drive stakes into the ground at the high end as well as the low end, and then hang a string and line level between them.

Try to dig out the patio so that you have a grade of 1 inch for every 3-4 feet.

3) Build a form from 2×6 lumber that will hold gravel and concrete. This is the basic frame for the outer edge of the patio and once inserted into the area you’ve excavated, it should be level with the ground, assuming you want your patio to be flush.

4) Once the form is in place, put down a two inch base of gravel. This will provide some flexibility so that the concrete won’t crack during the winter when it freezes.

5) Insert rebar as reinforcement into the hole, making a grid by placing sections of rebar either one foot or two feet apart, moving from front to back and then from left to right.

6) Mix the concrete in the automatic mixer. Pour the concrete as quickly as possible, mixing in filler rocks as you go and using a straight board (called a screed) to keep it level. Drag the screed down the length of the form, with it resting on both sides.

Use a float to smooth out any lumps, sweeping it in a long arc and taking care not to gouge it into the concrete.

7) For larger patios, you’ll need to cut control joints with a trowel to prevent the slab from cracking. These are grooves cut every 3 feet or so in the concrete. For the first pass, use the trowel to etch them in place, with the edge of a board as a guide to keep them straight. Once in place, extend the grooves deeper to about one inch deep with the jointer.

8) Cover the patio with plastic sheeting so that it can cure properly. The sheeting traps moisture in and prevents the concrete from drying to quickly. Try to keep the patio covered for at least a week with the sheeting and avoid putting too much stress on the new patio for at least a month, as concrete takes 3-4 weeks to completely cure.

The first step to treating algae is to identify which type of algae you’re wrestling with. Once you’ve pegged the culprit, you can begin the treatment.

Stepping back a bit, though, the best way to treat algae is to never let it become a problem. Proper pool maintenance will keep algae from growing, so be sure that you maintain the right pool sanitizer level to prevent algae from ever forming.

Once you’re faced with algae, check the pH and adjust it if necessary. If it’s green algae, superchlorinate the water (going as high as 30 ppM chlorine) and then wait until the chlorine drops to normal levels, which usually takes about 48 hours. Add an all-purpose algaecide and follow the directions on the packaging. After the algaecide treatment, vacuum the dead algae and backwash the filter. If the algae growth is really heavy, you may need to repeat the above treatment.

If you’ve got mustard algae or black algae, use a stiff brush to remove as much of the spots as you can. Turn off the pool pump and spot treat the algae with chlorine tablets then pour an all-purpose algaecide on the algae spots. Leave the pump off and let the algaecide work overnight. Restore water circulation the next day and brush off any dead algae and vacuum. Again, if it’s a heavy case of algae you may need to repeat the treatment again if there’s more algae remaining.

Salt water swimming pools use special chlorine generators that produce the chlorine your pools need, which means that you never have to buy, store, or add chlorine to your pool. In order for the chlorine generator to work, the water must have a salt content of 2500-6000 ppm, with an optimal range of 2500-3500 for comfortable swimming.

In a nutshell, a salt water pool is one with a chlorine generator, so the salty water is actually a secondary effect. You could just as easily call them chlorine generator pools but that sounds impersonal and far too technical.

I won’t go into all the chemistry involved, but the chlorine generator  basically works by electrolysis to produce chlorine, which then turns into hypochlorous acid. That’s the sanitizer that kills algae and other nasty stuff in the water. Keep in mind, though, that the hypochlorus acid only works as a sanitizer when the pool is balanced and at the proper pH, so you still have to maintain your pool chemistry in order for a chlorine generator to work.

As as pros and cons of salt water pools, many people prefer the swimming experience in a salt water pool, as the water is often clearer and free of algae or chloramines that can cause burning red eyes. Many people also feel that the water in a salt water pool feels softer and smoother on their skin.

On the maintenace side, you’ll never have to handle or buy chlorine again, as the generator produces all you’ll ever need. While you will have to periodically add salt to the water to enable the generator to function, that’s a lot easier and less expensive than adding chlorine.

As far as cost, expect to pay something in the range of $1,000-$2,000 for a quality chlorine generator unit and other equipment to enable you to switch over to a salt water pool.

There are two main types of chlorine generators that are used in salt water pool systems. Both produce chlorine when the salt content in the water is high enough, but they work in different ways, and may or may not require you to add salt to the pool periodically.

1) Brine system generators: These utilize a tank or chamber filled with salt, so there’s no need to add salt to the pool. In brine systems one must be periodically refilled with water and salt, while the second chamber must be periodically drained of caustic soda and refilled with fresh water. Some systems use electronic indicators that alert the pool owner that maintenance is required, while others use simpler mechanical alarms. Brine systems are less common as many feel they are too much trouble to maintain.

2) Salt chlorinating generators: These typically have the chlorine-producing generator (basically the chlorine generating cell and related electronics) installed as part of the water recirculation system. Because there’s no chamber to add salt as in a brine system, you’ll need to periodically add salt directly to the pool water itself in order to maintain the correct salt content for the generator to work.

If you’ve decided to dive into the wonderful world of owning a swimming pool, the next logical step is to find a swimming pool builder. (That is, right after you tell your DIY husband or wife to please put the shovel down, thank you very much.) While it’s always intimidating to hire a contractor for any big, expensive job, it’s not that bad if you stay focused on narrow it down to simple, easy steps.

1) Make sure any builder you use has certifications from the National Spa & Pool Institute (NSPI), including CBP (certified building professional) and CSP (certified service professional) certifications.

2) Always shop around and get different bids. Don’t be afraid to talk to people. Always ask for references. When you get them (and simply walk away if a builder can’t quickly produce references), actually call the people given as references and visit their pool if possible. Yes, I know, that’s a horrible hassle, but you’re not buying a box of doughnuts here.

3) Visit the showroom of the builder and ask some random questions, posing as a normal customer or someone who already owns a pool. Tell them you just bought a house with a pool and have no idea how to maintain it and what would they recommend. If the staff is courteous, knowledgable, and very helpful, that’s a good sign. If they’re clueless or otherwise can’t be bothered, beware the red flag.

4) Check with your local Better Business Bureau to make sure the company is in good standing.

5) Avoid any builder that requires a hugedown payment or any builder that pressures you into making a quick decision. You’re not buying a used car and any reputable builder will have plenty of business and won’t be desperate to push you into a deal, offering you special incentives or deals that are good for one week only, etc.

6) If any warranties are offered, always get it in writing before ever signing a contract. Don’t just take their word on it. When it’s time to sign the contract, go over it with a fine-toothed comb, just like you would any other contract that involves large sums of money exchanging hands.

The guide to closing your pool below is primarily intended for pool owners that live in areas where multiple freezes and/or snow are common. If you live in more temperate areas with very mild winters, you typically can get by with simply maintaining your pool as normal but with less filtration time each day and fewer chemicals. Always keep in mind, too, that properly closing your pool can greatly reduce the time and effort it takes to open your pool the next season.

1) Balance the water.

About a week before you close the pool for good, adjust your water balance to somewhere in the ranges below:

pH: 7.1-7.5
Alkalinity: 75-125 ppm
Calcium Hardness: 175-225 ppm

When that’s done, shock the pool. Wait until the chlorine level is around 1.0-3.0ppm and then add winter algaecide and your pool cover.

2) Lower the water level.

Using either the filter pump or a submersible pump, lower the water level until it’s 12-18″ below the skimmer (for mesh pool covers) or lower it 3-6″ below the tile (for solid covers).

3) Drain pumping, filtering, heating, and chlorinating equipment.

All pump, filters, heaters, and chlorinators have drain plugs, and you have to completely drain them to prevent cracking and damage during freezes. Also be sure to remove any filter grids or cartridge filters and clean them thoroughly before storage.

4) Remove anything else that is removable.

This includes pool equipment such as skimmer baskets, fittings, pool cleaner houses, solar blankets, pool ladders, etc. as well as anything esle pool-related that needs to be stored during winter.

5) Lubricate the pump and filter.

Lubricate any o-rings on the pump or filer that you can get to.

6) Thoroughly clean the pool.

Don’t think that you can get away with not cleaning the pool one last time, just because you’re closing it for the winter. Skim the pool, vacuum, and brush. If it’s really dirty, always vacuum to waste, pumping the debris out the backwash line.

7) Winterize the plumbing.

For inground pools, blow out the lines using a Shop Vac or similar device. Your goal is to blow air from the skimmer through the equipment and back to the pool, then to plug the lines at the pool. If you don’t blow the lines, at least add swimming pool antifreeze into the the lines.
For above ground pools, simply disconnect the hoses to and from the pump and filter and plug the wall outlets.

8) Add winterizing algaecide and cover the pool.

Mesh safety pool covers are best, as they’re not only the safest but don’t require you to peridoically remove pooling water during the winer as solid pool covers do. If you do have a solid cover, be sure to regularly clean off debris and collected water during the winter months, as it will make opening the pool much easier.
Wait until you’ve done everything else to add the algaecide, as the pool needs to recover from the earlier shocking before you add it.